Boss, telling his wife at register (left) to watch that waiter
boss, trying to tell topper guy how to do his job (he has worked there for 10 years and does 1000 pizzas a night)
Pizza funghi
32 at a time go in the oven. the first in comes out when the last goes in (about 1 minute cook time at 700+ degrees)
its called the mortuary inside because it has marble tables, outside its just as crowded
start with bacala and a grilled vegetablesEverybody asks me if Rome is expensive, so I will give some examples of why I think that aside from airfare, a vacation in Rome is cheaper than a vacation in any US city.
Our apartment central Rome for one month costs the same as one month in Portland this coming January.
Meals in Trasteve restaurants cost 30-35 euros per couple including wine. A higher end restaurant like La Campana by my old office was E 49, including service and wine.
Bus fare is E 1 per 90 minutes.
Museum entrance is E 6-8 depending on whether you buy singly or in groups.
A large glass of wine in a sidewalk cafe E3.5 service included. A coke or a glass of beer the same.
Internet access, free in cafes or over provincia de Rome network
A plate of funghi porcini mushroom pasta 10-12
Buccatini amatriciana at Lilli E 10.
a newspaper E 1.
A wonderful freshly made sandwich of pizza biancha, with prosciutto and mozzarella is E 3.
¼ pound of prosciutto in the pork store is E 2.5
A very fresh and softball size ball of mozzarella is E 4.5- 5.0
Coffee and a cornetto E 2.
In my non-professional economist opinion, the US has had inflation, Europe has not. The US inflation has not showed up in prices but in a devaluation of the dollar. It’s still inflation, but the usual way of tracking it isn’t working anymore. The dollar is priced against the Lire exactly where it ought to be, maybe a little on the high side. It's not that Europe is expensive, the US has devalued its currency to hide the fact that we are having inflation. (not sure what any professional economists i know would say to that)
mg
A young Italian family next to us , had 2 children with them – a 6 year old boy and a 2 year old girl. And they were there to Eat. First came some antipasto – salami, cheeses. Then 3 portions of Spaghetti alle vongole – which was eaten mostly by the kids. Then came a grilled fish, filleted – a large one – almost 2 portions – and veal piccata. The young boy ate all the fish – his sister shared the veal with his parents. Then…came roasted funghi porcini, baccala in sauce, grilled peppers, French fries and chicory…mostly for the parents.
The kids a bit restless – the younger climbed into the stroller for a nap. The boy started creating things from the bread. He made the form of a car – rolling up and squishing bits to make wheels to stick on toothpicks. Then he made a fort – then a robot - he borrowed some bits of tomato from his dad – some green strands from his mom.
A small store on an unsophisticated street behind the Vatican …a sight to behold – artisanal cheeses, 400 of them. There must have been more than 50 types of pecorino, from soft and sweet (like butter) to mature and piccante for grating – milk from cows grazing in particular valleys, winter pasturage or summer, aged in caves, rubbed with ashes, wrapped in bay leaves and on and on. And salamis , too. I guess maybe available in American cities but then I am a Cape Cod girl, big city offerings not an option. This is the store where Lia bought the gorgonzola dolce…and we wanted more. As we talked to the owner, he said a restauranteur friend in New York buys from him and offers a cheese plate on his menu at Celeste, I think he said on Via Amsterdam.
A starter of ovoli salad - a delicate mushroom sliced very thin and mixed with mandolined celery and shavings of parmiggiano, dressed in a lemon and olive oil dressing.... subtle and seasonal.
Sauteed funghi porcini and a sort of veal stew served with polenta. This polenta was integrale so had a hearty grainy taste. Lia said she cooked it for one hour in a heavy bottomed pan, stirring only occasionally until the very end as the last of the water is absorbed.
The main attraction!
Then gorgonzola dolce, cremosa - rich, buttery without the bite of an aged blue cheese
Atop....polenta!
To Altilia - a small Roman town Altilia, 1st C. b.c. - mobbed with people we didn't stay long there is a theater and two very intact gates. There were people living there into the Middle Ages and there are some buildings from that era.
Then a stab in the dark - looking for a place to stay that was closer to Rome - without our big fat Agriturismo book - WE FOUND SOMETHING ON THE IPAD!!! In Cassino, we drove thru a barnyard to a beautifiul country restuarat - but alas! they were not serving Sunday dinner, the lunch crowd still hanging around at 6:00. This is pretty much the point of agriturismos - a good meal at a reasonable price - half pension. 
